nectar of the Scots

On Scotland’s Malt Whisky Trail, you’ll learn how to properly imbibe a wee dram, what makes a single malt and everything you’d ever want to know about eight great whisky distilleries – plus, see some stunning scenery while you’re at it by Julie Alpine

It’s not the kind of thing anyone should shout about when north of the border, but despite having grown up a stone’s throw from some of Scotland’s finest whisky country – with a grandfather on one side of the family who worked at the Glenfarclas Distillery and a great-uncle who was the “Whyte” of Whyte & Mackay on the other – given the choice, I’d rather have a mojito. In fact, I haven’t touched a drop of my national drink since a nasty experiment in my teens involving half a pint of the amber nectar and a blackcurrant cordial mixer. But if whisky is something of an acquired taste, just how and where can a novice like me acquire it?

The answer is Scotland’s Malt Whisky Trail, the only one of its kind in the world. A couple of hours after flying in to Aberdeen you can be on your way. The trail is a little over 100km long and takes in eight of the country’s famous distilleries (plus the Speyside Cooperage), which are all located close to the natural ingredients on which whisky’s unique flavour depends.

En route, you’ll discover rugged Highland scenery, a beautiful coastline and welcoming villages and towns, as well as craft centres, castles and gardens. If you’ve got a bit more time you can also play golf on championship courses, fish, sail, go dolphin watching or follow the Speyside Way footpath from the coast to the Grampian hills. The simplest way to see it all is to rent a car in Aberdeen (great deals from Hertz are available on bmibaby.com) and follow the distinctive tourist route signs. But if, like me, you want to avoid arguments over who’s going to be the designated driver, some sections of the trail are also serviced by bus routes (for public travel information, tel +44 (0)870 608 2608).

The history of Scottish whisky is as dramatic and winding as the breathtaking roads of the Whisky Trail. Initially celebrated for its medicinal qualities, “a wee dram” was often prescribed for the relief of colic, palsy and smallpox (if only today’s health professionals still recognised its benefits!). But the “water of life” soon became an integral part of Scottish culture, which could only lead to one thing... taxes. And so the canny Scots distillers went underground.

In the early 1800s, George Smith became the first person to acquire a licence to make whisky, infuriating his fellow moonshiners along the way. They threatened to burn down his still – with him still in it. He refused to back down and fought off robbers, excise men and smugglers. The Laird of Aberlour was so impressed he presented Mr Smith with a pair of hair-trigger pistols to use for his protection. (Alcohol and firearms – always a great combination.)

A couple of centuries later and it’s George Smith we have to thank for the excellent (or so I’m told) Glenlivet single malt, so it a wee dram was often prescribed for the relief of colic, palsy and smallpox seems only fitting to make my first stop the Glenlivet Distillery. Here, set high in the foothills of the Cairngorm Mountains, a guided tour covers all the “how to” details... and then it’s time for the good stuff.

The full appreciation of malt whisky involves all of the senses, the most important of these being smell. This is why whisky “tastings” are commonly called “nosings,” “tasters” are referred to as “noses” and the room in which they practice their trade, the “nosing room.”

While I tend to belong to the “any glass will do” school of drinking, the ideal whisky glass apparently needs to have a bowl (so the spirit can be swirled and warmed in your palm) and a rim that narrows slightly, so that the subtle aromas can be directed up the nostrils.

I’m invited to raise the glass and take a whiff before taking a sip. My guide tells me to resist the urge to swallow immediately, but to roll it on my tongue and coat the inside of my mouth thoroughly before gulping it down (finally!). He then adds a drop or two of spring water – any other kind would be chlorinated and therefore affect the taste... sacrilege in the eyes of the experts. Ice, I’m told, should also never be added to a single malt as its cooling effect prevents the aroma from being released, although (with my mouth burning) it’s easy to see why some might be sorely tempted.

But practice makes perfect, and there’s no shortage of opportunities on the trail. At the end of the day, while still a long way from developing a knowledgeable palate, I’m getting better at appreciating the underlying flavours of honey and heather. And while I won’t be rushing out to buy a hip flask just yet, I’m quite happy to end the day with a mug of warming hot toddy, adding plenty of honey and lemon – but no Ribena.

what makes single malt so singular?

The term “single malt” can only be used to refer to those spirits made from barley malt. Blended whisky is produced by mixing several different single malt whiskies together. The base of the Johnnie Walker blended whisky, for example, is the single malt Cardhu. In a true single malt, the barley all comes from the same region of Scotland, where growing conditions are carefully controlled. Different environmental factors of the different regions change the qualities of the whisky, in a similar way to the wine regions of France and Italy.

the great 8 distilleries on the Malt Whisky Trail

Benromach Distillery and Malt Whisky Centre, Invererne Road, Forres Tel: +44 (0)1309 675968, www.benromach.com The smallest working distillery in Speyside. Browse round the gift shop, enjoy a tutored nosing, wander through the museum or exclusively bottle your own unique bottle of Benromach.

Cardhu Distillery, Knockando Tel: +44 (0)1340 872555 The only malt distillery pioneered by a woman. Discover the story of the silky smooth malt whisky that is used in some of the award-winning Johnnie Walker whiskies.

Dallas Dhu Historic Distillery, Mannachie Road, Forres Tel: +44 (0)1309 676548 Explore this fine old Victorian distillery and then enjoy a dram in the audiovisual theatre as the story of Scotch whisky unfolds before you. There’s also an exhibition, a gift shop and a picnic area.

The Glenfiddich Distillery, Dufftown Tel: +44 (0)1340 820373, www.glenfiddich.com Choose between the Original Tour – which is free – or opt for the more detailed Connoisseur’s Tour, which is followed by a tutored nosing. There’s also the Glenfiddich Bar, a coffee shop and a gift shop.

Glen Grant Distillery and Garden, Rothes Tel: +44 (0)1340 832118 Witness Major James Grant’s legacy and see the distillery’s impressive copper stills, then stroll through the Victorian Woodland Garden to the heather-thatched dram pavilion and tumbling waterfall beyond.

The Glenlivet Distillery, Glenlivet Tel: +44 (0)1340 821720, www.theglenlivet.com Visit the wild and lonely setting of the Glenlivet, established in 1824 by the fearless George Smith. Take a guided tour and then sample a dram.

Glen Moray Distillery, Bruceland Road, Elgin Tel: +44 (0)1343 550900, www.glenmoray.com Glen Moray has been distilled on the banks of the River Lossie in Elgin since 1897. Take a tour and your guide could be one of the label’s small dedicated team of craftsmen, who will guide you in a tasting.

Strathisla Distillery, Keith Tel: +44 (0)1542 783044, www.chivas.com Enjoy a welcome dram of Chivas Regal 12-year-old whisky followed by a tour of the distillery, after which you’ll be offered a glass of the famous Strathisla 12-year-old single malt.